The care that each ox has received during its lifetime and the patience required to reach its prime continue after its slaughter. When that time comes, once again we have to wait and let time do its work on the meat, to get it to the right point of ageing. Throughout a process that may take weeks or even months, depending on what each piece requires, the external fat slowly filters inwards until it gives the meat an extraordinary smooth, buttery texture. Tenderness and flavour build up slowly day by day, and it is necessary to understand the meat and listen to what it is telling us, to be sure it will be ready for the grill.